Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Island Coast Centurion

My long shadow in the waning twilight suddenly reminds me that I'm lugging 50lbs of cargo on my back wheel. I can't tell if I'm going uphill or down, I only know what gear I'm in. Propelled only by my focused breath and the fantasy of destination, I'd finished the last of my energy bars at Bowser (unicorporated), and quaffed the last of my liquids overlooking Fanny Bay. Night is falling, I'm running on fumes, and I'm so low on electrolytes that I can barely move my fingers

About 5km outside of Courtenay, I can start to smell the wood fires of what folks up here consider civilzation. And then, like an aromatic quasar, the most pungent barbecue fills my lungs and opens my eyes. As my breath deepens, hoping to find some energy in the airborne chicken molecules, my focus and determination are renewed, the light at the end of this long tunnel is brightened, and an old man pulls up along side me on his bike. Apparently I'm just crawling down the highway.

From what I can tell in the twilight, he's wearing jeans and a mackinaw, has no helmet but a handlebar mustache. He's friendly, though. “Hey feller! How's the pushing?” I struggle to make sense of his words as I pull my consciousness back into the realm of language, until I realise that he's on an electric bike. And I'm pretty sure he's drunk. “Where ya headed?” He reasserts himself.

“The next pub, brother. Where can I get a beer?” I knew he'd have an answer near at hand for questions regarding beer, and didn't have the energy to articulate my overwhelming need for fish & chips. As it turns out, he was headed to the Whistlestop Pub, about a kilometer away just inside the Courtenay city limits. We ride together, united in our urgent quests – mine to re-feul, and his to re-up. We make pleasant, folksy small-talk for the last few blocks along the seawalk before reaching the pub. His name is Gary Smith, and in the fluorescent glow of the liquor store parking lot, he is every bit the redneck I'd expected. But on an electric bicycle. Only on the Island.

Hobbling inside the pub in my cycling tights and race jersey, I only get a few funny looks before I collapse into the padded leather booth in the corner. It doesn't take me long to order a french onion soup and oysters & fries. Nor does it take me long to realize that I'm borderline hypothermic, my right knee doesn't want to bear my weight anymore, and my cramped ass isn't interested in helping. I turn on my cell phone just in time to answer a call from my mom and dad. They'd started to worry about me as night fell, so they'd left Campbell River to scan the road for me and were presently about a block away from the very pub I was sitting in.

I can't accurately express to you my overwhelming sense of relief at this synchronous situation. My wonderful parents bought my meal and drove me, and my bike, and my cargo, the remaining 40km of cold, dark highway up to Campbell River. And now I am drinking a beer and watching CBC in a La-Z-Boy before bed, ready to prepare for salmon fishing tomorrow. What a great way to start my vacation.

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Food Storage

Eating locally seems like a great idea, and I'm so into this idea for such a vast array of reasons that it tires me to even think about outlining them yet again. You should know by now, eating local just makes sense on a number of levels. The thing that makes it hard, though, is the seasonality of our beautiful northern climes. When I first gained awareness of the importance of everyday food choices, it was the dead of winter, and it really forced my tastebuds into a certain degree of asceticism. Beets and potatoes are delicious, not to be misunderstood, but the wonderful selection of root vegetables stands in stark contrast to the summer's strawberries, the variety of stonefruit from the okanagan, the fresh hothouse tomatoes and cucumbers, and the sweet, wild things that grow in my very neighborhood.
And so it came to be that we gained access to a large chest freezer. Immediately, it found itself stuffed with organic chicken and locally finished natural beef... but it felt empty. It was missing a certain variety. It was missing blueberries! And blackberries! And corn, and beans! So I began to fill bags... so many bags... and then I discovered jars! The things you can put in jars! Peaches, apricots, cherries, blueberries, blackberries, beans, pickles, eggplants, tomatoes... all of the things that we are so blessed with in this time of abundance can be frozen in time, preserved for the long winter ahead! Such discoveries have opened a whole new world of local gastronomy.
I feel much like those first homesteaders to discover canning must have felt (minus the many botulism deaths they must have initially endured). The excitement of expanded winter eating, followed by the realisation of the responsibility to engage in the work of food storage, and the feeling like I could never possible squirrel away enough for the winter. The mad rush to pickle everything, everything, everything I can. I'm now sitting on about 6 dozen jars of preserves and 30lbs of frozen berries... never enough... never enough.
If you want the crib notes of actually how to get this canning done, send me an email. It's actually quite easy, if you are aware of a couple lynchpin concepts. But I think I'll save the mass-publishing of the mechanics for my book.


Neufeld Farms blueberries in 1lb bags for freezing

Cherries and peach halves in syrup

So many pickles! Beautiful pickles!

Pickled beans, dill cucumbers, and Ashcroft eggplant

Pickled eggplant antipasto

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Producer-Direct Resources

I've been very busy lately attempting to preserve the season's abundance before the rains start to fall, and fresh produce becomes scarce for the winter months. It appears I am becoming more like the ant, and less like the grasshopper, in my advancing age. The unfortunate result of this ongoing productive activity is a decrease in update frequency as well as a slowdown on big dinners.
I'm still living the values of the Corner Table with every sip of pure Vancouver water I take, with every bite of locally produced ambrosia I consume, and am even more active with my interest in educating the community about food-related issues, and I pray for our message to reach more and more of our neighbors as the seasons change.
It becomes increasingly important for us to share not only ideas, but resources and contacts with one another. I have begun a small list of links to organizations and individuals I have been dealing with in my culinary crusade, people whose fine work can be found on my pantry shelves, and in my freezer and frying pans. Please send me an email, and share your sources and resources with me, and we can strengthen our agri-cultural community with each other. Soon enough, I will share stories and photos of my food storage activites. Bon Sante.

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Sunday, July 18

Amazing dinner. Thanks to all who participated. We were graced with the presence of Dan, Anna, Mia, Sean, Dave, Steph, Mel, Ben, Tristan & Katie. Everybody lent a hand, which enabled this meal realize its full potential.
Tristan baked while Katie prepped shallots & salad, Ben & Mel washed up between courses, Sean served and helped Anna peel prawns, Dave serenaded us and Steph brought beautiful Chilean Late Harvest SVB. Mia set the table and made the centerpiece, which were gorgeous as you can see... and provided the photographic record.

Mia's centerpiece

Long table of beautiful people

Organic Thomas Reid hen & homemade caesar of organic BC romaine

Seared Sablefish with honey-buttered Abbotsford haricots & chimichurri

Korean BBQ of Hopcott's Top Sirloin & kimchi

Dusk begins to fall, Pesquie is poured

Risotto with BC Spot Prawns & Hopcott's Own farmer's sausage

Banana muffins, whipped cream local organic blueberries

Night settles as the meal winds down. Soon, we will sing and be merry.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Chateau Inauguration

The Chateau's inaugural dinner was definitely one for the books. Mia McLarty took photos.

Seared Seafood Amuse
total cost $2.50 each, $4.25 with 2oz wine pairing

Huge,Fresh B.C. Spot Prawns ($7.50/lb from Albion, through Shallaw @ Fishworks)
With Shaved Fennel & Apple Salad, apple-cider and local wildflower honey reduction.
Beautiful sea asparagus from Chef Karen Barnaby... "The best in six years," she reckons.

With Blue Mountain Pinot Blanc.

Risotto Course
total cost $2.75, or $4.25 with 20z wine

Herb & Cheese risotto
Sauteed local criminis, shimijis, oysters and chantrelles with herb & shallot
Robin and I plating for Nancy, Andrew, Adam, Mia, and himself.
Finished with Pecorino Romano and white pepper, echoed by the Chateau Pesquie Cotes du Ventoux (Southern Rhone Grenache/Syrah). Did I mention the white truffle oil to finish?


Boeuf
total cost $5 each, or $6.25 with 2oz wine

Aged Alberta Skirt Steak, $15.99/kg



With oven roasted organic Delta tomato, grilled Washington asparagus, and grill roasted local leeks.
Finished with truffled herb butter and red wine jus. Paired with Sumac Ridge Black Sage Merlot ($20). Gorgeous.



Organic Creme Brulee
total cost $2 each, $3 with 2oz sherry
Made with local, organic whipping cream and organic cane sugar. Tahitian vanilla bean.
Served with homemade wild blueberry jam, sweetened with local wildflower honey.

Paired with Nutty Solera Oloroso Sherry. Deep, nutty, caramelized flavors, cut with blueberry acidity. Words are not sufficient.
Total cost of this meal: $13.50 per cover for food, $4.25 each for a flight of wines...
$17.75 each
Success. Time to plan the next dinner.

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Epic Bosa Trip

It's been far too long since I've had a bottle of truffle oil in my pantry. As I left the kitchen at the Tea House, Chef Knowlson bestowed upon me a beautiful bottle of Elle Esse white truffle infused olive oil, and I used it frequently for the whole year it lasted me. Its last drops were, unfortunately, spent in the hot pan of a roommate, who had unwittingly wasted it to cook bacon for his Kraft Dinner. Never mind its relatively exorbitant cost, using the stuff like olive oil yields extremely displeasing results... I came home to a house filled with truffle smoke, and my roommate telling me, "Dude, that truffle oil is shit."
Hoping that my new roommates are more gastronomically aware, I once again strapped my panniers on the Time Machine and made my way out to Burnaby for an epic shopping trip.
From my "research" on GoogleMaps, I'd decided that taking the TransCanada Highway from the Second Narrows to Boundary would be the most direct route -- the information I'd failed to acquire was that bicycles are strictly forbidden from the freeway. I also failed to obey the clearly posted signs telling me so. When I've got somewhere to go, I get there. Potholes, deep gaps between sections of the road, and fully loaded 18-wheelers leaving me no room on the shoulder were the first sign that an alternate route might have been better... crossing lanes of 120km/hr traffic to avoid unwanted exits and access left turns reminded me that truly death-defying experiences are infinitely more entertaining than the simulated ones at Playland.
Finally, I found the importer's retail superstore on Kootenay Street just off 1st and Boundary, but I couldn't find anywhere to park my bike. How very un-European. I wish they'd imported some ideas along with all those olives.











But what olives there were! Walking through the front door and picking up a basket, I was struck dumb by a diffuse, ethereal, almost holy glow emanating from Bosa's shrine to olive oil. I've never seen such a variety in my short, provincial life. From bulk, cheap, cooking oil, to single-variety and regionally specific bottles. I'd noticed the phrase Denominazione di Origine Protetta
on some of the bottles, the first time I've ever encountered a non-wine product bearing appellation status. Holy shit.
Nonetheless, the only truffle oil I saw on this shelf was Italissima oil with white-truffle extract for $10/375mL. I picked it up, a little disappointed, but ready to move on to mushrooms, meat, and cheese.
Lots of dried, Italian mushrooms. I definitely should have picked up a bag of dried Porcini (good idea...) but, instead, turned up my nose in discontent at the absence of local varieties (elitist idea). In the cooler, however, there were a couple of packages of Ponderosa mushrooms. I used to deal with this company through the Tea House. It was a guy in a Van full of mushrooms - fully above board, but small, and I met the pickers sometimes. Awesome. These mushrooms were $6/100g though. That's $60/kg. But I don't need much, they'll make a big difference to my risotto, and I know that this item represents a short food chain - Bosa buys these fresh from Ponderosa, who recently picked them themselves. I'm on board.
Cheese was insane. Huge variety, mostly imported, but all in wedges or wheels... and gorgeous. One deceptive brand called "Okanagan Falls" is actually produced in the USA but it doesn't say exactly where. I can't tell you if this cheese is any good or not, but I can tell you from looking closely that it doesn't come from Okanagan Falls, BC. I don't want to buy this product, simply because they're pissing on my head and telling me it's Fresh, Local Rain. Whatever... in any case, my wedge of true Pecorino Romano was 1/3 the cost of any comporable cheese at Save-On. I would highly recommend Bosa for a massive cheese trip. They also have a full spectrum of Raincoast Crisps, and Terra Breads fruit & nut crisps. I chose Fig & Olive Raincoast Crisps... the Terra Breads was organic though. Whatever, choosing organic is less important for small amounts of dried fruit and flour, than it is for choosing beef or chicken. I saw the meat department on the port side.
There is some beautiful meat here. And if I recall correctly, an organic chicken that was even more expensive that Safeway (who is, I think, doing fairly well on the organic front). Beef enderloin was about $20/lb and sold $100 at a time, and the pork is all from Quebec or Ontario. I was happy that the guy at the counter was forthcoming with this information, though assuring me that the beef is Alberta (local enough, really, but not awesome) and the chicken is local. Pretty standard meat department, I think, though displaying some larger cuts and good quality meat. I bought a gorgeous whole flank at $7.50/lb, and some beautifully aged skirt stakes. They later proved immensely flavourful, and I'm still eating the medium-rare flank sliced thin in sandwiches.



That was about it, I thought. Some cool sausages and cured meats, but I wasn't interested in those and had to be at Fishworks soon, so to the checkout I went. And there it was, so close to the beginning of my journey, but so far, the truffle oil display right next to the checkout. I spent some time here. Mostly taking pictures -- this is like a sacred place for me. In my experience, truffle oils are the best expression of truffle flavor available in this city. And here they all were - I would assume Bosa is one of the city's largest importers and wholesalers of truffles and truffle oil, based on its size and Italian focus... and here they all were. Including, in fact, the round, $20 bottle of Elle Esse white truffle infused extra virgin olive oil, the very bottle that Chef Knowlson had kindly introduced me to many years ago. I knew then my destined mission was fulfilled successfully. This trip was meant to happen, and I found myself more than happy to pay $80 for my load of premium local and imported gastronomic reagents. So happy, in fact, that I went to Liberty wines on my way home and picked up a $25 bottle of Blue Mountain Pinot Blanc to celebrate... but not until dinner...


Oh yeah,
I also bought some salt pork. I fried some up and put it on my Annie's before work. With, of course, truffle oil.

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

2 Courses on a Monday Night

Coquilles St. Jacques
Scallops
White wine

onions
breadcrumbs
butter


I've recently found a rekindled passion for uber-classical French cuisine, and the way it interfaces with local produce. After taking a book called "Cuisine du Terroir" from the library, I was immediately struck by a recipe I'd heard of, but never actually eaten or cooked. Or seen. But from the looks of the recipe, this must be a shining example of what French cuisine is all about: simplicity and technique.
I knew I had to celebrate this discovery with a perfect wine pairing, and though the book recommended Muscadet-sur-lie as a regional complement, I had a craving for Cremant d'Alsace (bright acidity and toasty autolytic character is a no-brainer with this beautiful, light seafood dish) and found a beautiful bottle by Sumac Ridge -- the Steller's Jay Brut. Not only has this bottle been aged en tirage (in contact with the spent yeast from bottle fermentation) for three whole years, this primarily Pinot Blanc brut is actually riddled and disgorged by hand - a painstaking process that is usually done by computer-controlled gyropalettes nowadays. At $26, I doubt you can get a bottle made with this much love in too many other places.
I will have to make this dish a few more times to get my ideas straight. I've looked into a few different versions since, and there seems to be many takes on it -- some with cream, some with bechamel, some with mushrooms and parmesan... Chambar even has one with pork cheek, pickled green beans, and horseradish. I'm not sure if that captures the simple spirit of the dish. Creative and delicious, I'm sure, but it seems to me that les coquilles st. jacques must be about scallops and only scallops. In our search for new, exciting, and marketable dishes, we have lost the spirit of la belle cuisine. I aim to reclaim.

Course 2: The Risotto
Now, les coquilles is not a dish to fill up the belly, though perhaps the soul. So I made a fat batch of risotto. I have a bag in my freezer I think of as my "stock bag" which includes broccoli and onion scraps, chicken bones, etc, so I just made a quick stock out of that with which to hydrate the risotto. Here are a couple of pictures of the risotto process to give you an idea of my risotto philosophy -- dry during cooking, wet only during finishing. You will not achieve risotto by covering the rice with water (until the final stage) -- you must let it steam until it is finished. I added sundried tomatoes and artichokes to this one. Enjoyed with a bottle of 2007 Menguante Carinena DO old vines garnacha ($10.50 @ BCL). Raisinated fruit flavors, white pepper, medium body and tannin, beautiful pair with the sundried tomatoes and white pepper I chose in the risotto to echo the character of the garnacha. Make risotto and try this... please.

Left: my risotto looks like this for at least an hour in the pan - dry.





Right:

my risotto looks like this in the last 2-3 minutes of finishing: soupy wet, emulsifying with butter