Fried Chicken

Just in case you want to try fried chicken that is made from real chicken, not the Colonel's patented doppel-poultry. I used Thomas Reid cornish hen.

There are many delicious variations on this idea: this recipe may not take the gold medal, but its definitely the simplest, which certainly puts it on the podium.

You'll need:

chicken (breasts, thighs, drumsticks; wings require a different procedure to be both crispy and juicy)

egg
milk
flour
salt and pepper

sunflower oil (I prefer it to corn or canola, since these crops are very often GMOs. Sunflower crops... a bit less often.)

do this:

Put 1L of the oil into an 8” pot, set to medium heat. This is enough oil for a shallow fry, which just means that you'll have to flip the chicken a couple of times. If you want to deep fry, use 2L. Not much difference. Set the stove to medium.

Beat the egg in a bowl and add some milk. I used 1 egg to about ½ cup milk. The more milk you use, the less flour will stick and the lighter the batter will be.

Add some salt and pepper to the flour, in a bowl, until it tastes a little salty and peppery. This is just to season the chicken, so this is where you'd want to add your own secret blend of herbs and spices. I think good quality chicken is its own secret blend of herbs and spices – the ones they ate in the pasture.

Dredge your rinsed and dried chicken breast into the flour bowl, then coat it in the egg-milk, then back into the flour. Here, you'll be well advised to press the flour into the chicken skin and make sure it is 100% coated. You want to create a starchy shell that entirely encapsulates the meat, to keep the juices inside (and out of the oil, where juices cause spits and pops). The shake-n-bake, toss-it-in-a-ziploc-bag, Rachel Ray method of easy fried chicken makes shitty fried chicken. Take your time on the little things.

(this is golden... breasts may be done now)

Once your chicken is coated, test the oil with a small piece (I use a tender, the muscle group that is loosely attached to the breast). You want to see the oil bubbling rapidly, but not violently. If it is bubbling violently, take the pot off the heat and add a few pieces to the pot, filling it but not crowding it. This will cool it down, and when they are frying happily, you can return it to the heat. You might have to turn down the stove. Conversely, if it bubbles too slowly, you might just have to wait for the stove to heat up, or your stove's thermostat might be running cold, so you'll have to kick your heat up one or two notches. The goal is to achieve the kind of happy bubbles I've captured photographically.

(this is amber... extra crispy legs and thighs!)

Every few minutes, if you're shallow-frying, turn the chicken over. How long this will take depends on how big the chicken is, but when the batter starts to turn a deep golden colour, pushing on amber, take a piece out and slice into it to see if it's done. No more blood = done (although, I do like my thighs and drumsticks a little on the overcooked side – extra crispy!). Keep in mind: drumsticks and thighs will take longer than breasts.

Once you've pulled your cooked chicken out of the oil, sprinkle just a little bit more salt on it. Maybe some pepper. Essentially, season it one last time: straight out of the fryer is the very best time to season anything, the oil just soaks up flavor as it stops bubbling outward and retreats into the pores of the crispy batter, bringing any seasoning with it.

Voila: Home-Fried Chicken!

p.s. - save the oil for your next frying: after its cooled, just let it drip through a coffee filter, and it comes out crystal clear.

Tiny Chickens!

After work on Saturday night, I immediately took my fresh, tiny, Thomas Reid-raised hens to task. I was up all night butchering a dozen birds and roasting their bones for stock... I put the caramelized carcasses under water with mirepoix just after 5am, and left the heat on low while I napped.
Up at the crack of noon, I immediately put on a cup of coffee, drained the stock, and spent the day cooking with Destiny.
We chopped potatoes and mushrooms for hash, celery and leeks for soup, and she julienned and caramelized a bag of organic onions. We made a light chicken stock with the remaining little bones, for use as a soup base. I crashed the large pot of dark stock down to a half litre of chicken demi, and made creme anglaise with free range eggs and Surrey honey, to be cooled and churned for dessert. As the clock wound down, I trayed the chicken quarters, seasoned and seared.
When Tristan and Kaitlin arrived, I put bread in the oven and Tristan harvested chives and arugula sprouts from the garden. Robin and Mia arrived with Rob and Alex just as I sliced bread, finished the soup and ladeled out creamy bowls. Vichyssoise!

(avec ciboulettes des jardin)

After soup, Robin rendered a tray of Dawson Creek double-smoked bacon, with Delta cherry tomatoes and thyme. We tossed pans of mushroom and pea hash in foaming butter while the chicken quarters finished in the oven. The chicken demi was added to reduced red wine and mounted with butter... Robin cut makeshift ring-molds for us to plate the pedestal for our
perfect poultry, crowned with caramelized onion and micro-arugula. Wines: Garnacha del Fuego (old vines Granache from Spain - plummy, peppery purple velvet, $17). La Buxynoise Reserve Bourgogne (classic French Pinot - light, brisk and woody, but driven by fresh red cherry), Cedar Creek Merlot/Cabernet 2006 (amazing $19 Kelowna bottle - so very currant, plum and chocolate, decadent and well balanced). The stage is set for: Local, Organic, Cornish Hen!

(I can't believe how horrible the best of my photos of this chicken turned out. I'm sorry, tiny chickens.)

Finally, with the help of Tristan's amazing white chocolate anise biscotti and clean, crisp Columbian from Moja Roasters, I was ready to finish this locally-driven meal with 100% locally produced honey ice cream (forgive me the organic Hawaiian ginger and Indian baking spices). As a delightful treat, Tristan produced a chilled bottle of Prospect Winery's "The Lost Bars" Vidal Icewine! Such a likely partner to fresh, homemade honey and spice ice cream! Echoes of wildflower honey and dried apricot sweetness, followed by pleasantly prominent acidity (a foil!), to balance and fill the palate. Bliss.

Such auspicious eating can only be followed by similarly momentous merrymaking, and more wine was drank as the clock's embrace widened. As those with other engagements made their way, I remembered tray of cornish chicken wings that I had earlier floured and par-baked!! And the sunflower oil I'd brought in specifically to fry them in!! I put 2L of oil on medium heat and tested it with small pieces of chicken until they bubbled just a little too fast, and then put in 2 dozen tiny chicken wings to crispy. Quick sauce: honey, Destiny's raspberry vinegar, salt, pepper, cayenne... and micro-arugula! Cornish munchies!

Thomas Reid Chicken

Driven by the duty to deliver, seduced by the deal of the century, I loaded up the Time Machine early Saturday morning in preparation for a veritably epic trek.
Destination: Thomas Reid Farms in Langley. I'd only seen their website, where they offer boxes of cornish hen for $50. I'd done some loose math and worked it out to about $2.50/lb... for certified organic, free range, locally family-farmed chickens! This kind of deal demands a pilgrimage.
Arriving at King George Station, via Skytrain, avec bicyclette, I donned my Viking suit and ventured into the unknown in pursuit of pillaged poultry (at $2.50/lb, I almost feel guilty about taking so much chicken).
I cycled under persistent Fraser Highway rainfall, through the Green Timbers Urban Forest. I cycled down the steep hill past Fleetwood Centre, up the gentle slope beyond the Surrey Golf Course... into the trough of Surrey's farmland, back up the hill to old Langley City. Turning left at the new Casino, I turned onto 56 ave, past the Langley Bypass, past the Langley Airport, into the Agricultural Land Reserve, into the land of the Lord.
I was taken into a lush, idyllic shire... a land of meadows and mist, of cow patties and gravel lanes, and gently rolling hills. These did not feel so gentle on my return, with 30lbs of tiny chickens hanging on my back wheel.
Just over the creek, past Clovermeadow and Wagonwheel Crescents, I saw the sign: Certified Organic Thomas Reid Farm, turned the corner, and found no storefront. I found chicken houses and pastures, for sure, but nothing but sheds and farmhouses otherwise. I called the number on the website, and was answered with simply, "Hello?"
"I'm trying to get to Thomas Reid Farm. I made an appointment with Brad earlier in the week - I'm looking for organic cornish hens."
"Brad will be home in a few minutes, just come on up the driveway."
I cycled into the basketball court of a family home with teenage boys, and their mother greeted me at the door. "Hi, I'm Karen..." she saw my bike in the driveway and the bicycle helmet on my head... "you want a whole case?"
She led me inside to sit me down to a fantastic cup of tea, and hear about my trek from North Vancouver. Her eldest son David soon entered the room, apparently still a little worse for wear from Friday night. "You came all the way from North Van?? You're crazy, man. Next time you want some chicken just let me know, I'm out there alot diving and climbing." Maybe we can work something out -- but I'd definitely tip a man generously, who would bring me this much great poultry for $50. Brad finally came in, with a bluetooth on his ear and a large box of chicken held by zapstraps in his hand. "I heard you biked in all the way from North Van, so I brought you the biggest box I have. 13.9kg."
My jaw drops at the sight of 17 individually wrapped and cleaned, healthy little chickens. After a moment's awe and reverence, I pull a single red bill out of my wallet, and incredulously hand it to Brad. Thanks were exchanged, and I had to fight the urge to tell him how much more he could charge. $50 for 17 hens... less than $3/hen... just under $4/kg, about $2/lb. Significantly more weight than I'd budgeted for... I couldn't believe that the primary protein for up to 17 meals would only cost me $50. Produced by a local family in a natural, ethical way... and all guests would agree, delicious. The real star of this meal was Thomas Reid Farm. Thank you.