Thursday, December 23, 2010
My Reviews
The District
Cactus Club Cafe: Global Dining Lounge
Kim Penh Pho Xua
Suki Sushi
Quattro on 4th
Moja Roaster Cafe
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
La Regalade: The Soul of French Cuisine
With today’s menu up on blackboards, this rule was mostly followed. Duck, oysters, rabbit, beef, pork, lamb, scallops, and steelhead salmon all earn their place on the fresh sheet, but I found myself confused why the caesar salad and tomato tart were chalked up. These out-of-season items were out of place, and belong, if anywhere, on the single laminated sheet of house specialities. This menu must have been static since the restaurant was decorated, apparently sometime in the mid nineties, but I had already planned to order some practiced dishes from the cookbook.
One should first be aware of the intense nature of a French winter meal. This food has evolved over centuries to nourish peasants and aristrocrats alike through the cold, dark Gallic months. One should prepare one’s self for a serious meal. I found the classic pear and blue cheese tart an appropriate warm up to my main event of boeuf bourguinon, and though its presentation left something to be desired, this example offered a skilfully stimulating balance. Rich and light, with subtly sweet pear slices and savoury, smoky blue cheese. Its temperature and texture were, however, particularly uninspiring, and would have benefited from some oven time, rather than having been plated seemingly straight from its tupperware home.
The boeuf bourguinon was exactly what I wanted it to be. Arriving in an enameled cast-iron tureen, a generous portion of comforting stew. Any dryness was compensated for by abundance of braisage, textured with a dice of soft carrots and toothsome mushroom slices. The sauce was expertly thickened, ever so lightly with veloute, not thick enough to be called gravy, but enough to luxuriously coat my side-order of pommes gratin.
The wine list is composed of a few selections of each major style, and divided into two sections, France and BC. Selections by the glass range from $6.50 to $14.50, with some bottles as low as $30. The average markup from BC Liquor prices was about 125%, about average. The list was, however, very wisely chosen, with some great value wines. Wild Goose BC Riesling paired magnificently with the blue cheese in my tart, a $42 bottle well spent, but I was truly impressed by the 2007 Crozes-Hermitage “Les Brunelles.” For a $60 bottle, this is exactly what I want in a French Syrah. Spicy, medium bodied with generous but well-balanced tannin, with subtle herbs and leather. Did I mention spicy? This wine is driven by pungent black pepper and plum, an absolutely ideal pairing with my rich bourguinon. Kudos to the sommelier.
I had their very last tarte tatin, a gorgeously executed classic, with deeply caramelized apples and praline ice cream. As with all of their desserts, I found the presentation leaving much to be desired... but at this point of the night, it was past midnight, and they were probably being plated by the dishwasher. All the same, I think the whole table had simultaneous spasms of pleasure.
When the plates were all cleared, all of us were absolutely stuffed after 3 courses. And everybody was immensely contented by the food. As a cook, I admire the practiced simplicity and execution of every single dish I tried, although I was disappointed at most of the presentation. What really impressed me was the service. As a waiter myself, I admired the patience of our servers, as we all knew that we were that party everybody hates serving. We arrived more than half an hour late, ordered more than an hour late, and kept their chef in the kitchen past his bedtime. It is hard to be patient and composed as a server, balancing the interests of your kitchen and your guests, but I must say that the veterans at La Regalade are masters of their craft. This restaurant is not fancy, and this restaurant is not pretentious. It is not perfect, and it is not polished. But it is honest. It is the product of years of culinary mastery, if a bit sloppy. It is very clear, however, that this is more than anything else, the product of a family that really cares about food. And that is truly the soul of French cuisine.
Monday, November 29, 2010
The Story of the Curious Oysters
Inspired by Kaoru and Dave's fantastic oyster party, motivated by Nicole's amazing mignonette recipe, here is the latest Knights of the Corner Table presentation: The Story of the Curious Oysters!
Thursday, November 11, 2010
Video: Quiche Lorraine
Sunday, October 3, 2010
The Cooking Show
Link to 5 minute YouTube trailer...
Saturday, October 2, 2010
Just Words
Life is about creating the world we would like to share with people, and shaping that world with the people we would best hope to share it with. Such a creative life is limitless, if you create it in trust with limitless people. I'm increasingly coming to realise how blessed I am to be surrounded by such people.
Shallaw and Tyler and Robin and Sean and all of the staff at Fishworks are wholly exceptional souls. Not very often does an idea experience the synthesis of this breadth of experience and interpersonal harmony. Not only is Shallaw's concept and execution of the highest order, but his social intuition is able to bring together a very unique and exciting group of people. This is what makes me the most hopeful for Fishworks -- I think everybody knows that this is about more than business.
So I think it is important to recognize the people who make us who we are. None of us exist in a vacuum -- for better or for worse, we are created by the people we let in. And my life has become infinitely richer for allowing myself to open up enough to let in some very genuine people that I have come to trust.
Life as an old man can be rewarding, after all.
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Fish House Farewell
When everybody had arrived, I set out our homemade antipasto platter as we opened the Chianti. Grilled ciabatta accompanied our roasted BC Hothouse peppers, Quebecois bocconcini, Spanish olives and artichokes, and my own pickled local green beans and eggplant. Served with olive oil, reduced balsamic, and my homemade BC Hothouse marinara. The roasted organic garlic spread proved itself a shining star.
As crustini consumption casually came to a close, we began work on the first seated course. My homemade, organic crimini mushroom ravioli was laid on a bed of unbelievable organic cauliflower puree, and crowned with Parmesano Reggiano. Sauteed wax beans provided a bit of crunch, and organic chicken demi adds the ultimate in savory depth. Well-oaked yet crisp, my CedarCreek Reserve Chardonnay was very nice with this dish... I will definitely do this again.
One of my favorite dishes at the Fish House is the Pad Thai, but since I learned about the implications of supporting South Asian tiger prawn farming, I haven't been able to order it. Agro-colonial subjugation and ecological devastation are just too heavy a price to pay for cheap seafood. Fortunately, Safeway is now offering organic tiger prawns -- I'm sure they're still ethically flawed, but I will always support a step in the right direction. Thus, I offered my organic take on the Fish House Pad Thai. It was well received by my co-workers. Robin was very wise to pair this with Mt. Boucherie Ehrenfelser. Sweet and aromatic, balanced with plenty of citrus acidity... just like Thai food.
Finally, 'tis the season for blackberry pie. And like a good little ant, I'd spurned the grasshopper's summer tomfoolery and elected to pick about 20lbs of the succulent fruit from my neighborhood hedges. Served with homemade vanilla bean ice cream, I presented Mount Piesuvius.
Goodbye, my fishy friends. You will all be sorely missed... but always welcome over for dinner.
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
Island Coast Centurion
About 5km outside of Courtenay, I can start to smell the wood fires of what folks up here consider civilzation. And then, like an aromatic quasar, the most pungent barbecue fills my lungs and opens my eyes. As my breath deepens, hoping to find some energy in the airborne chicken molecules, my focus and determination are renewed, the light at the end of this long tunnel is brightened, and an old man pulls up along side me on his bike. Apparently I'm just crawling down the highway.
From what I can tell in the twilight, he's wearing jeans and a mackinaw, has no helmet but a handlebar mustache. He's friendly, though. “Hey feller! How's the pushing?” I struggle to make sense of his words as I pull my consciousness back into the realm of language, until I realise that he's on an electric bike. And I'm pretty sure he's drunk. “Where ya headed?” He reasserts himself.
“The next pub, brother. Where can I get a beer?” I knew he'd have an answer near at hand for questions regarding beer, and didn't have the energy to articulate my overwhelming need for fish & chips. As it turns out, he was headed to the Whistlestop Pub, about a kilometer away just inside the Courtenay city limits. We ride together, united in our urgent quests – mine to re-feul, and his to re-up. We make pleasant, folksy small-talk for the last few blocks along the seawalk before reaching the pub. His name is Gary Smith, and in the fluorescent glow of the liquor store parking lot, he is every bit the redneck I'd expected. But on an electric bicycle. Only on the Island.
Hobbling inside the pub in my cycling tights and race jersey, I only get a few funny looks before I collapse into the padded leather booth in the corner. It doesn't take me long to order a french onion soup and oysters & fries. Nor does it take me long to realize that I'm borderline hypothermic, my right knee doesn't want to bear my weight anymore, and my cramped ass isn't interested in helping. I turn on my cell phone just in time to answer a call from my mom and dad. They'd started to worry about me as night fell, so they'd left Campbell River to scan the road for me and were presently about a block away from the very pub I was sitting in.
I can't accurately express to you my overwhelming sense of relief at this synchronous situation. My wonderful parents bought my meal and drove me, and my bike, and my cargo, the remaining 40km of cold, dark highway up to Campbell River. And now I am drinking a beer and watching CBC in a La-Z-Boy before bed, ready to prepare for salmon fishing tomorrow. What a great way to start my vacation.
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
Food Storage
And so it came to be that we gained access to a large chest freezer. Immediately, it found itself stuffed with organic chicken and locally finished natural beef... but it felt empty. It was missing a certain variety. It was missing blueberries! And blackberries! And corn, and beans! So I began to fill bags... so many bags... and then I discovered jars! The things you can put in jars! Peaches, apricots, cherries, blueberries, blackberries, beans, pickles, eggplants, tomatoes... all of the things that we are so blessed with in this time of abundance can be frozen in time, preserved for the long winter ahead! Such discoveries have opened a whole new world of local gastronomy.
I feel much like those first homesteaders to discover canning must have felt (minus the many botulism deaths they must have initially endured). The excitement of expanded winter eating, followed by the realisation of the responsibility to engage in the work of food storage, and the feeling like I could never possible squirrel away enough for the winter. The mad rush to pickle everything, everything, everything I can. I'm now sitting on about 6 dozen jars of preserves and 30lbs of frozen berries... never enough... never enough.
If you want the crib notes of actually how to get this canning done, send me an email. It's actually quite easy, if you are aware of a couple lynchpin concepts. But I think I'll save the mass-publishing of the mechanics for my book.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Producer-Direct Resources
I'm still living the values of the Corner Table with every sip of pure Vancouver water I take, with every bite of locally produced ambrosia I consume, and am even more active with my interest in educating the community about food-related issues, and I pray for our message to reach more and more of our neighbors as the seasons change.
It becomes increasingly important for us to share not only ideas, but resources and contacts with one another. I have begun a small list of links to organizations and individuals I have been dealing with in my culinary crusade, people whose fine work can be found on my pantry shelves, and in my freezer and frying pans. Please send me an email, and share your sources and resources with me, and we can strengthen our agri-cultural community with each other. Soon enough, I will share stories and photos of my food storage activites. Bon Sante.
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Sunday, July 18
Tristan baked while Katie prepped shallots & salad, Ben & Mel washed up between courses, Sean served and helped Anna peel prawns, Dave serenaded us and Steph brought beautiful Chilean Late Harvest SVB. Mia set the table and made the centerpiece, which were gorgeous as you can see... and provided the photographic record.
Seared Sablefish with honey-buttered Abbotsford haricots & chimichurri
Korean BBQ of Hopcott's Top Sirloin & kimchi
Dusk begins to fall, Pesquie is poured
Risotto with BC Spot Prawns & Hopcott's Own farmer's sausage
Banana muffins, whipped cream local organic blueberries
Night settles as the meal winds down. Soon, we will sing and be merry.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Chateau Inauguration
total cost $2.50 each, $4.25 with 2oz wine pairing
Beautiful sea asparagus from Chef Karen Barnaby... "The best in six years," she reckons.
With Blue Mountain Pinot Blanc.
total cost $2.75, or $4.25 with 20z wine
Herb & Cheese risotto
total cost $5 each, or $6.25 with 2oz wine
With oven roasted organic Delta tomato, grilled Washington asparagus, and grill roasted local leeks.
Finished with truffled herb butter and red wine jus. Paired with Sumac Ridge Black Sage Merlot ($20). Gorgeous.
total cost $2 each, $3 with 2oz sherry
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Epic Bosa Trip
From my "research" on GoogleMaps, I'd decided that taking the TransCanada Highway from the Second Narrows to Boundary would be the most direct route -- the information I'd failed to acquire was that bicycles are strictly forbidden from the freeway. I also failed to obey the clearly posted signs telling me so. When I've got somewhere to go, I get there. Potholes, deep gaps between sections of the road, and fully loaded 18-wheelers leaving me no room on the shoulder were the first sign that an alternate route might have been better... crossing lanes of 120km/hr traffic to avoid unwanted exits and access left turns reminded me that truly death-defying experiences are infinitely more entertaining than the simulated ones at Playland.
Finally, I found the importer's retail superstore on Kootenay Street just off 1st and Boundary, but I couldn't find anywhere to park my bike. How very un-European. I wish they'd imported some ideas along with all those olives.
But what olives there were! Walking through the front door and picking up a basket, I was struck dumb by a diffuse, ethereal, almost holy glow emanating from Bosa's shrine to olive oil. I've never seen such a variety in my short, provincial life. From bulk, cheap, cooking oil, to single-variety and regionally specific bottles. I'd noticed the phrase Denominazione di Origine Protetta
Nonetheless, the only truffle oil I saw on this shelf was Italissima oil with white-truffle extract for $10/375mL. I picked it up, a little disappointed, but ready to move on to mushrooms, meat, and cheese.
Lots of dried, Italian mushrooms. I definitely should have picked up a bag of dried Porcini (good idea...) but, instead, turned up my nose in discontent at the absence of local varieties (elitist idea). In the cooler, however, there were a couple of packages of Ponderosa mushrooms. I used to deal with this company through the Tea House. It was a guy in a Van full of mushrooms - fully above board, but small, and I met the pickers sometimes. Awesome. These mushrooms were $6/100g though. That's $60/kg. But I don't need much, they'll make a big difference to my risotto, and I know that this item represents a short food chain - Bosa buys these fresh from Ponderosa, who recently picked them themselves. I'm on board.
Cheese was insane. Huge variety, mostly imported, but all in wedges or wheels... and gorgeous. One deceptive brand called "Okanagan Falls" is actually produced in the USA but it doesn't say exactly where. I can't tell you if this cheese is any good or not, but I can tell you from looking closely that it doesn't come from Okanagan Falls, BC. I don't want to buy this product, simply because they're pissing on my head and telling me it's Fresh, Local Rain. Whatever... in any case, my wedge of true Pecorino Romano was 1/3 the cost of any comporable cheese at Save-On. I would highly recommend Bosa for a massive cheese trip. They also have a full spectrum of Raincoast Crisps, and Terra Breads fruit & nut crisps. I chose Fig & Olive Raincoast Crisps... the Terra Breads was organic though. Whatever, choosing organic is less important for small amounts of dried fruit and flour, than it is for choosing beef or chicken. I saw the meat department on the port side.
There is some beautiful meat here. And if I recall correctly, an organic chicken that was even more expensive that Safeway (who is, I think, doing fairly well on the organic front). Beef enderloin was about $20/lb and sold $100 at a time, and the pork is all from Quebec or Ontario. I was happy that the guy at the counter was forthcoming with this information, though assuring me that the beef is Alberta (local enough, really, but not awesome) and the chicken is local. Pretty standard meat department, I think, though displaying some larger cuts and good quality meat. I bought a gorgeous whole flank at $7.50/lb, and some beautifully aged skirt stakes. They later proved immensely flavourful, and I'm still eating the medium-rare flank sliced thin in sandwiches.
That was about it, I thought. Some cool sausages and cured meats, but I wasn't interested in those and had to be at Fishworks soon, so to the checkout I went. And there it was, so close to the beginning of my journey, but so far, the truffle oil display right next to the checkout. I spent some time here. Mostly taking pictures -- this is like a sacred place for me. In my experience, truffle oils are the best expression of truffle flavor available in this city. And here they all were - I would assume Bosa is one of the city's largest importers and wholesalers of truffles and truffle oil, based on its size and Italian focus... and here they all were. Including, in fact, the round, $20 bottle of Elle Esse white truffle infused extra virgin olive oil, the very bottle that Chef Knowlson had kindly introduced me to many years ago. I knew then my destined mission was fulfilled successfully. This trip was meant to happen, and I found myself more than happy to pay $80 for my load of premium local and imported gastronomic reagents. So happy, in fact, that I went to Liberty wines on my way home and picked up a $25 bottle of Blue Mountain Pinot Blanc to celebrate... but not until dinner...
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
2 Courses on a Monday Night
Scallops
White wine
onions
breadcrumbs
butter
I've recently found a rekindled passion for uber-classical French cuisine, and the way it interfaces with local produce. After taking a book called "Cuisine du Terroir" from the library, I was immediately struck by a recipe I'd heard of, but never actually eaten or cooked. Or seen. But from the looks of the recipe, this must be a shining example of what French cuisine is all about: simplicity and technique.
I knew I had to celebrate this discovery with a perfect wine pairing, and though the book recommended Muscadet-sur-lie as a regional complement, I had a craving for Cremant d'Alsace (bright acidity and toasty autolytic character is a no-brainer with this beautiful, light seafood dish) and found a beautiful bottle by Sumac Ridge -- the Steller's Jay Brut. Not only has this bottle been aged en tirage (in contact with the spent yeast from bottle fermentation) for three whole years, this primarily Pinot Blanc brut is actually riddled and disgorged by hand - a painstaking process that is usually done by computer-controlled gyropalettes nowadays. At $26, I doubt you can get a bottle made with this much love in too many other places.
I will have to make this dish a few more times to get my ideas straight. I've looked into a few different versions since, and there seems to be many takes on it -- some with cream, some with bechamel, some with mushrooms and parmesan... Chambar even has one with pork cheek, pickled green beans, and horseradish. I'm not sure if that captures the simple spirit of the dish. Creative and delicious, I'm sure, but it seems to me that les coquilles st. jacques must be about scallops and only scallops. In our search for new, exciting, and marketable dishes, we have lost the spirit of la belle cuisine. I aim to reclaim.
Course 2: The Risotto
Now, les coquilles is not a dish to fill up the belly, though perhaps the soul. So I made a fat batch of risotto. I have a bag in my freezer I think of as my "stock bag" which includes broccoli and onion scraps, chicken bones, etc, so I just made a quick stock out of that with which to hydrate the risotto. Here are a couple of pictures of the risotto process to give you an idea of my risotto philosophy -- dry during cooking, wet only during finishing. You will not achieve risotto by covering the rice with water (until the final stage) -- you must let it steam until it is finished. I added sundried tomatoes and artichokes to this one. Enjoyed with a bottle of 2007 Menguante Carinena DO old vines garnacha ($10.50 @ BCL). Raisinated fruit flavors, white pepper, medium body and tannin, beautiful pair with the sundried tomatoes and white pepper I chose in the risotto to echo the character of the garnacha. Make risotto and try this... please.
Left: my risotto looks like this for at least an hour in the pan - dry.
Friday, May 28, 2010
Granache with Panache!!! ;)
2007 Chateau Pesquie "Terrasses", Ventoux AOC (Southern Rhone) Grenache Syrah
Bright medium ruby in color, with a mediumplus nose of red plum and raspberry - preceding nutmeg, and somehow, olive grove? Something vegetal and earthy.
Dry, mediumplus acid with medium tannin and medium weight. The red and black fruit take a backseat to licorice and white pepper. Olives remain in play -- black and savory. Yet, red cherries take the lead for the home stretch of its medium-plus length. Not jolly rancher cherry -- homemade cherry pie filling. Mmm.
The high acid keeps the Terrasses lively amidst its pungent complexity. It ripe fruit and spice don't obscure the unique woodsy character -- there is a harmonious community of flavors asserting itself in this glass. Al dente tannins grip without staying attached... again, acid moistens and balances this firm structure. Conclusion: Fuckin 'Eh.
ps. I drank this bottle (actually, the last of Robin's bottle -- I definitely owe him a replacement) with fusilli in olive oil & greek olives, sundried tomato & basil, onions, garlic and thyme -- and Robin's aged Parmesan wedge, grated. God damn. This is what life is about.
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
Blueberry Tart
Last time I made pastry dough, I made extra and saved it in the freezer. Good idea.
Seeing them next to each other in my freezer last night, and having a craving for desert... led to a good idea.
ACTION! Pulled pastry dough out of the freezer and drank a bottle of wine while I thought about how I'd tackle this problem. By the time I had my gameplan, the dough was ready to be rolled.
With an oven preset to 350, I rolled the dough out (folding it several times, to build flaky layers) and onto a pie pan. Docked and blind-baked.
Step 2: Melted milk chocolate, brushed onto the inner surface of the cooling tart shell.
Aside from the obvious benefits, this layer of chocolate, when cooled, acts as a moisture barrier, allowing a crispy, flaky dough to coexist with a moist, gooey filling.
Step 3: Blueberries with a touch of local wildflower honey and 1tbsp of red wine/cornstarch slurry (to thicken). Brought to a boil and cooled in a pie pan in the freezer to firm up. This filling should be started while the pie shell is cooking, and cooled by the time the chocolate is brushed on.
Step 4: Hallelujiah! There is a Jah! Whipping cream in the fridge. Trader Vic's in the liquor cabinet. Vanilla bean in the pantry. Not only did I scrape the bean, but I chopped it up TINY and threw the whole thing in. The pod has flavor, and vanilla is super expensive, so I don't see the need to be shy with it. Shot of Trader Vic's, and whisk whisk whisk. Pile high, high as she goes. I poured on the remainder of the melted chocolate, because... why not?